Missed the prep?
Start at the beginning and discover how this unforgettable trip was planned — from the route to the packing list and more:
👉 KGL Racing On Tour – 6000 km Balkan Edition 2025 (by motorcycle)
An Epic Journey: A Motorcycle Odyssey Through the Balkans and Back
The air above Sint-Truiden already hummed lightly on that early June day in 2025. Not from the heat, but from the excitement that accompanied the start of an epic motorcycle journey. Our steel steeds were packed to the brim – just barely not overweight, a detail that surely elicited a sigh of relief from the inner perfectionist among us. GPS locked and loaded, tent carefully stowed, and chargers… well, there were far too many, because in the good old days, a handful of maps sufficed. 
With 5000 kilometers ahead, through mountains and along azure seas, past ancient cities and over wild ideas, the smell of exhaust fumes already hung in the air, sweat beaded on leather, and the first stories were already being forged in our minds. The motorcycle adventure was about to begin.
The Road South: From Gigantic Pits to Spongy Gloves
Barely across the Belgian border, and our first stop brought us, literally and figuratively, to a halt. Between Düren and Kerpen, a surreal moonscape unfolded: the gigantic brown coal mining areas of the Rhineland. The open-pit mines of Garzweiler, Hambach, and Inden covered an area as large as all of Brussels, and on the map, 
they even seemed to rival nearby Cologne. It was an alien sight: the skyline of a metropolis in the background, while in the foreground, the earth lay gaping open. From the Skywalk Garzweiler, we hovered directly above the abyss, and at Terra Nova, we got the best view of the colossal excavators. Here, you suddenly felt incredibly small.
After this impressive, albeit somewhat depressing, confrontation with human impact on nature, we set course for Winterberg. First, we had to churn out some boring highway kilometers, but soon we could unleash ourselves on 150 kilometers of beautiful back roads. The scenery didn’t disappoint, though the weather gods apparently had other plans. The morning started brisk at 11 degrees Celsius, but by afternoon, the temperature dropped to a soaking 8 degrees. Our gloves felt more like sponges than protection, but the mood remained consistently high. Fortunately, we arrived warm at our hotel, with the eternal hope of every motorcyclist for better weather tomorrow.
Balkan Calling: From Breakfast Spectacles to Croatian Coast Dreams
The next morning dawned with a breakfast just as it should be – bacon and eggs, the ultimate fuel for the true adventurer. Under a radiant sun, we left Winterberg behind. A few more delightful curves, and then it was time for the highway, for a serious ride of about 900 kilometers south. Around 6:00 PM, we reached a well-occupied campsite in Bled, where tents were expertly pitched, and motorcycles were allowed to cool down after the long journey. A well-deserved mixed grill followed, because after such a day, the inner man needs to be fortified. The next destination beckoned: the Croatian coast.
And there she was. After a challenging ride through the mountainous interior, the azure Croatian coast appeared near Crikvenica. Time for a much-needed break, a sweet treat, and a refreshing drink under the warm sun. 
The motorcycles rested for a bit, and so did we. Then, it was back on the road, searching for a place to sleep for the night. The photos spoke volumes: what a view, and what a team!
Evening fell in Licko-Senjska, where we found a “modest” apartment with three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, a living room, and a sea view. There are worse things, right? Our first encounter with the Croatian coastal road was a revelation: magnificent views, smooth asphalt, and intense heat. The temperature shot up from 20 to 32 degrees Celsius in half an hour as we descended from the mountains – a bit of an adjustment, even for us seasoned riders. The evening concluded perfectly with pizza and a few drinks, in anticipation of a new adventure that the next day would bring.
The Croatian Speed Camera Saga: Heat, Roadworks, and Water Bars
The route from Zadar to Split was on the agenda, again along the beautiful Croatian coastal road. Curves, bays, blue seas… and roadworks. A lot of roadworks. So much so that we wondered if we hadn’t accidentally booked a course in traffic lights and temporary detours instead of a motorcycle trip. As if that weren’t enough, the thermometer was also taking its toll: 32 degrees Celsius in the shade, and we were definitely not in the shade. Combine that with traffic jams due to those same roadworks, and you get a sauna on two wheels. Sweating guaranteed — and we don’t mean from the cornering.
Another striking detail emerged: since Croatia joined the EU, they apparently also imported the enthusiasm for speed cameras. Seriously, it seemed as if every beautiful view had been replaced by a metal pole with a camera on it. Driving here now was a combination of speed camera spotting and riding slower than your grandmother with a walker. Luckily, we had Waze as our co-pilot, although even it got a bit overwhelmed by all the warnings at one point.
But, we didn’t let it spoil the mood. Once we arrived in Split, we rode into a campsite where we snagged a nice bungalow. Motorcycles safely parked, clothes (almost) tossed into a corner, and off we went — first into the sea and then into the pool. As icing on the cake, we discovered a water bar: a bar where you literally sit in the water with your drink. 
Why doesn’t that exist everywhere?! The evening concluded with a restaurant meal to satisfy our hunger before the journey would continue south towards Dubrovnik. Hopefully with fewer speed cameras and more views without those annoying warning tones.
The ride from Split to Dubrovnik was the continuation of a heatwave on two wheels. And anyone who thought today would be different from yesterday… nope.
Roadworks? ✔️
Speed cameras? ✔️✔️
Temperatures where your motorcycle suit spontaneously starts smoking? ✔️✔️✔️.
After a ride full of déjà vu moments and melting motorcycle boots, we finally arrived in Dubrovnik. Our apartment, fortunately, wasn’t an attic room with a fan, but a cool haven with a shower – hooray! 
Freshly washed (or at least less sweaty), we headed to the legendary old town. And it truly is impressive: narrow streets, thick city walls, and a hint of Game of Thrones – just a shame that we looked more like melted candles than royal knights. A bite to eat, a drink, soaking up the atmosphere among the other tourists, and then back to our base. Today’s check: Dubrovnik ✔️.
Bosnian Enchantment: From Pools and Engine Roars to Mysterious Pyramids
The journey continued towards Trebinje, a shorter ride but one with a grand ending. 
Our apartment for the next two nights had a rooftop terrace with a pool. And yes, that water certainly did its job – instant cooling after another hot ride. Trebinje itself was buzzing with motorcycles: the annual motorcycle rally was in full swing. Everywhere you looked, you saw roaring two-wheelers and gleaming choppers. Today’s soundtrack? The roar of exhausts, interspersed with the splash of our rooftop pool. 
As an aperitif, we ventured to try our first beer, a local brand with a name that sounded like a bad joke – NiksSicko. (means in dutch not sick) But who knows, maybe it was the start of an epic motorcycle weekend… That evening, we headed towards the rally itself. The scent of rubber, barbecue, and rock & roll already hung in the air.
Our next morning’s journey toward Montenegro began with a typical motorcycle rally ritual: a traffic jam at the border. Hundreds of motorcycles slowly shuffled forward, an impressive sight in itself. After some patience, we were rewarded with a phenomenal coastal route: the glittering sea to the right, imposing mountains to the left. The cliché “breathtaking” was literally applicable here. Time for a drink on a terrace with a sea view, and then, with good spirits, we took a narrow mountain road towards an alternative border crossing. Only… it turned out to be exclusive to locals. Ta-da: a forced detour of 50 km. Shame on you, ChatGPT, you should have known this! 😉
But no worries: once we arrived at our apartment in Trebinje, everything was made right. First, we quickly shot some drone footage, then jumped straight into the pool to cool off. And as if that wasn’t enough, we got an extra treat: from our terrace, we looked directly onto the main road where the motorcycle 
show was beginning. An endless parade of several thousand motorcycles loudly passed by. Half an hour of motorcycle mayhem, right below our balcony – a true symphonic roar of cylinders and exhausts. Fantastic! That evening, we enjoyed a meal and returned to the motorcycle rally for our last party night in Trebinje. Let the noise come!
The ride from Trebinje to Visoko was undoubtedly the most beautiful of the entire trip. 
Breathtaking views, fantastic curves, beautiful mountain roads, and – hurray! – no speed cameras in sight (or at least none we noticed). So yes, we could finally really open the throttle. Bosnia surprised us not only with its landscapes but also at the pump. 1.15 euros for a liter of petrol – where do you find that anymore? Economical driving? Nope. Fill ‘er up and blast off. 
Along the way, we made a stop in Sarajevo for some refreshing drinks and a piece of history: including a bullet- and grenade-riddled hotel from the war years (’92-’95), which still tangibly reminds us of those dark times.
Upon arriving in Visoko, we slept in a glamping hut with a view of… yes, the mysterious “pyramid” of Visoko. Officially a natural hill, but on site, you feel something isn’t right. 
During a drone flight, my device suddenly became uncontrollable at barely 200 meters away – the magnetic field went haywire. Never experienced that in 15 years of drone experience. Fortunately, the automatic return-to-home kicked in. Coincidence? Or is there really something in the air here? The concrete structures, the tunnels, the atmosphere… Visoko undoubtedly had something unique. Whether you believe it or not, it remained fascinating. Not only are the three “pyramids” of Visoko visible to the naked eye, but they also form a perfect equilateral triangle. And as if that weren’t enough, the Pyramid of the Sun is oriented exactly north-south – more precisely than Giza in Egypt. Coincidence? Unlikely. According to some estimates, these structures are 36,000 years old. That would mean that cavemen with flint and bear skins suddenly possessed astronomical knowledge and construction techniques that we still struggle with today. Is it truly natural? Or something that rewrites our history books? We would continue our journey, but we wouldn’t soon forget this place. 🔺 Geometry that makes you think.
From Waterfalls to Volleyball Dreams: The Glory of Banja Luka
After a relaxed morning start at our Glamping in Visoko – with a view of the mysterious pyramid and a strong cup of coffee – it was time to hit the road again. The first part wasn’t immediately spectacular: a lot of buildings, heavy traffic, and therefore mostly slow going. Fortunately, a coffee stop helped us through these first kilometers.
But then… Jajce! The famous waterfall in the middle of the city lived up to its name – a perfect photo opportunity! The city center itself wasn’t much to behold, apart from the old fortress that beautifully towered over everything. From there, the real fun began: the route to Banja Luka deserved a solid 5-star rating for motorcyclists. Think: mountains, valleys, winding roads along rivers – everything that makes a motorcyclist’s heart beat faster. Just pure enjoyment!
The day literally ended with a splash: arriving at our private villa with a large garden and its own swimming pool (more luxury than expected for “just passing through”). 
We immediately took advantage with a refreshing dip, followed by a drone flight for the necessary aerial views. And as if the cheap fuel here (1.15 euros/liter!) wasn’t enough to get excited about, the price of the stay also stood out: you can rent a villa with a pool here for the price of two Ibis rooms in Western Europe. Big enough to – figuratively speaking – invite the entire local women’s volleyball team and still have room left over. 😄 That evening? First, we went for something delicious to eat… and who knows, maybe the local women’s volleyball team even dropped by. 😄
Back to Croatia: Gravel, Zero-Alcohol Blunders, and Log Cabin Dreams
After our classic morning coffee and saddling up our steel mules, we hit the road again from Glavica. The first part? Boring city traffic, with the only variation – you guessed it – speed cameras. A kind of déjà vu from the past few days. After tinkering with the GPS settings, we fortunately ended up on narrower, more winding roads. And suddenly… gravel! Serious off-road vibes, Wimmeke (read his story here) would be green with envy. A few kilometers later, we decided to return to asphalt, for comfort and for lunch.
That’s where things went wrong again for a moment: Molle proudly ordered a fresh pint… only for it to be not just a Heineken, but a 0.0% one. Disappointment dripped from his face – that won’t happen to him a second time.
As we approached Plitvice National Park, the landscape changed dramatically: rock faces rose, rivers meandered along the road, and here and there waterfalls appeared in a stunning blue-green hue. Perfect moment for a photo stop and, of course: drone time! 
Our accommodation for the next two nights in Karlovacka? A sturdy lumberjack cabin straight out of a man cave dream. Rough, robust, and with just enough comfort not to go completely “into the wild.” Ideal, in other words. That evening, we ended in true Croatian style: a generous mixed grill – because when you eat out here, you get meat. And the next day, we would set out to explore the region further… looking for more curves, views, and hopefully no more 0.0% drinks.
Plitvice and the Unplanned Rest Day with a Twist
The next day, a “rest day” was on the schedule in Plitvice. And what does a motorcyclist do then? That’s right… a ride. After a hearty breakfast with coffee and tightening the chain (or was it just sleeping off a hangover?), 
we headed to the world-famous Plitvice National Park. Sounds idyllic, but what we found was that the entire area was cordoned off as if Donald Trump were on a state visit. Without shelling out 40 euros at the ticket booth, no glimpse of the lakes and waterfalls. That seemed a bit too much for us, so: Plan B.
We kept riding around, and then I saw a suspiciously small road on the GPS that wound towards the lake. Right turn, let’s see where this leads. Until we stood before a closed barrier. The GPS said we were close to the lake, but the trees were more numerous than we could see the forest. 
Our selfie stick was also 10 meters too short. So, it was time to take to the skies with the drone. And BAM, there they were: our Plitvice photos, without hiking sweat or an entrance ticket.
Satisfied, we continued our ride to the first terrace for a drink – it’s a rest day, after all. After that, we let our feeling guide us where to go. The landscapes were so varied that it felt like we were cruising through the Scottish Highlands – flat and green – only to suddenly encounter Corsican cornering. Roads where you almost needed knee sliders. 
Blissful. Another quick pit stop, then the last 50 km through a nature reserve so pristine that even Greta Thunberg would spontaneously get wet. And there, deeply hidden in the greenery, lay our log cabin. Time to send the drone up one more time to show where we had ended up – it wouldn’t surprise me if a bear came knocking soon. That evening in our log cabin in Karlovacka, we ended it as it should be: chopping wood, making fire, and barbecuing as if we had stepped straight out of Into the Wild. No electricity needed, just an axe, some wood, and a healthy dose of masculinity. The smell of smoke, meat on the grill, and good spirits made it complete. In short: men among themselves. Tomorrow, we would head to our final destination: Umag, here we come!
Umag: From Deer to Gin Tonics, Party, and Farewell
After our morning routine, we left our log cabin and – as usual – chose not the fastest or shortest route, but the most beautiful. We started with a repeat of yesterday: the wet Greta-route. Talk about a hearty breakfast.
Today, we followed the route that Google Maps gave as the very last option, and it soon became clear why. The 1000-curve route, straight through an extensive forest area. It doesn’t get better than this. 
Along the road, we again spotted those familiar deer signs, and lo and behold: there it was at last. A real deer. Relieved and startled, it darted back into the forest – no time for a photo, but at least we finally knew those signs weren’t a joke. Although until now, we thought they meant “drive deerly” 😄.
Meanwhile, the musings began. In every village, you see stacks of 30 cubic meters of firewood, Euro 0 cars happily puffing away as if it’s 1995, and yet… the nature here looks healthier than ours. Maybe because people here still milk goats and cows, instead of the people?
After a refreshing drink break, we continued our ride. 
The mountains came into view, and we crossed the pass smoothly, where at the top, we suddenly saw the sea shimmering. So, towards the coast, towards Umag. Mark set his GPS to “very winding,” and I felt like I was chasing drunk Greta herself – albeit in heels and with a GPS fetish. The combination of winding roads, 35+ degrees Celsius, and a leather motorcycle suit literally wrung the sweat out of my bones.
And then… after 14 days of touring… the finish line! Straight to our regular spot: the Tondo Bar. 
A refreshing gin tonic as an honorary prize. Umag had changed since I first came here 25 years ago, but the Tondo Bar? It was still there, just like our thirst. Also a happy reunion with our Croatian friends. Time to check into our apartment for the next three nights – because the Umag motorcycle rally was just around the corner. The evening concluded with dinner at another friend’s place, Janko. Let the party begin!
The next morning, we could wake up peacefully in Umag. No ride on the schedule, and that meant: no alarm clock, no stress, no packing ritual. Just a blissful lie-in, waking up to the sound of the sea (or the neighbors, could be either), and then: coffee. And a second one. And who knows, maybe a third later, just because we could. Last night, we had a pleasant meeting with locals Manuela and Denis. Seven years since our last chat – time flies, but the memories apparently remained fresh. A lovely evening, nice people.
Oh yes, special thanks also to Travel agent Rita for the perfect planning, the excellent care, and the outstanding guidance. 
Always ready, always correct… even without being physically present 😉. Why Travel agent Rita? ✔️ Personal approach (even when you’re on the road for 14 days with 3 bikers) ✔️ Everything arranged down to the last parking spot ✔️ 24/7 available (okay, unless it’s happy hour) ✔️ More experience than Google Maps and Booking.com combined ✔️ Includes memories, humor, and an occasional extra coffee break. Specialty: Balkan trips with a twist, guided from home with love, logistics, and latte macchiato. Travel agent Rita – Not bookable on Booking.com, but invaluable. ❤️
While the sun made the water sparkle and the boats gently bobbed on the Adriatic Sea, we opted for the heavier work: perusing the cocktail menu.
Decision fatigue on vacation, it really exists. 😅 Pure bliss enjoying the sea view, the clinking of ice cubes in the glass, and the realization: here, you don’t have to do anything at all. Except maybe… place another order. 😉 #CocktailTime #SeaView #EnjoyingInStyle #UmagVibes.
That day, the Motobeach Party – Umag 2025 also kicked off! Motorcycles lined up, beers flowed freely, and guitars were tuned! With bands like Iron Median and Band Riff, and AC/DI and Electric Ride. A weekend full of rock, motorcycles, and atmosphere on the Croatian coast! #MotobeachParty #Umag2025 #LiveLoudRideHard.
And a special moment for… Besides the wonderful reunion with Denis and Manuela, it was also special to see familiar faces again in Umag after all these years. A big thank you to everyone who stopped by or took the time for a chat, a drink, or just a good story. Friends like Sofija, Mario, Marjon, Danijela, Roso, Tihomir, Olivera, George,… – it was truly great to meet you all again. Some of you we see only sporadically, others perhaps only once a decade, but the feeling was immediately there again. You made this moment extra special. Hvala!
The last day in Umag was deliberately kept quiet. Everything was already packed for the early return ride at 5 AM tomorrow, but first, a moment of
silence: we paused at the cemetery to greet our good friend Zoran. (Zoran, by the way, is the founder of the Umag meeting). Twenty years ago, but never forgotten. Afterwards,
we headed back to the rally grounds, because that evening we stylishly concluded our trip at a unique seaside location with the AC/DC cover band. Let those guitars scream — Let there be rock! (📸 
See photos for atmospheric shots of the grounds and the beautiful surroundings).
The Grand Finale: The Journey Home and Sweet Return
At 4:30 AM, the alarm clock went off. Still half asleep, we pulled on our motorcycle gear, and at 5:00 AM, we rolled out onto the street, heading home. Today, we’d blast through the last 1350 km. What followed was a day of puffing, sweating, and… standing still. Germany, once the mecca of the unrestricted Autobahn, now felt more like a sauna 
on wheels with some extra roadworks and traffic jams thrown in. 38 degrees Celsius and a leather suit — not a golden combo. Here and there, we could still burn rubber, but they were exceptions.
And then, 9:30 PM. We pulled into the driveway in Sint-Truiden. And who was there? None other than Rita – yes, THE Rita from Travel agency Rita – ready to welcome us with a wide smile (and probably a moist eye). After 16 days, thousands of kilometers, liters of sweat, just as many beers, and tons of adventure, we were finally home. Tired but content. And with stories that will echo at the bar for years to come.
Until the next ride. Never let the engine stop. 🏍️🔥
The Numbers Don’t Lie…
After 16 days of adventure, sweat, meat, rock & roll, and speed cameras, we also read out the GPS. For the statistics lovers:
- Total kilometers: 5,112 km
- Number of turns: 5,422
- Number of gear changes: 7,887
- Number of times the front brake was squeezed: 7,740
- Temperatures along the way:
- Minimum: 6°C (Winterberg, rainy and chilly)
- Maximum: 38°C (Germany, Autobahn-sauna deluxe)
🚓 Speeding fines? Just two:
• 1x in Bosnia – 63 km/h in a 50 zone: €15 (with a smile and a nod)
• 1x in Belgium – 71 km/h in a 70 zone: €65 (remember that bit about milking people? Yep…)Conclusion: in the Balkans, they milk goats. In Belgium, they milk bikers. 😄
Moral of the story? One might forget a single kilometer, but some curves are etched in your mind forever.
Until the next ride. #KGLRacing #Balkan2025 #AdventureOnTwoWheels #MotorcycleTrip #NeverLetTheEngineStop